Valley of Flowers | Hemkund Sahib.

Detail route map to reach Hemkund Sahib and Valley of Flowers from Dehli.

This time, I started my journey for Hemkund and Valley of Flowers. Both the Himalayan picturesque spots lies amidst scenic surrounding in Uttranchal. Travellers may travel both the spots altogether as the route is same except last 5 or 3 kms trekking bifurcated in two direction from GHANGARIA. If anyone is more enthusiastic, may also include with this trip the holy Hindu mythological place BADRINATH which is only 20 kms from Govinghat or 48 kms from Joshimath.

Before starting for Valley of flowers and Hemkund Sahib , let me tell how easily and economically one can access the spots from different part of the globe.

The capital of India, DELHI is well connected with main cities of the world by air and also rests of country. The nearest airport is Jolly Grant in Dehradun and it is well connected by road with small town Joshimath or Govindghat via rishikesh.

Delhi is connected to Haridwar, Rishikesh and Dehradun by train. Last railway station in this route is Dehradun. But it is always better to break at HARIDWAR as the city is the center or also starting point via Rishikesh towards Valley of flowers and Hemkund Sahib.

Travelers from Delhi may also start journey by bus from ISBT, Kashmire Gate for Haridwar or Rishikesh.

Direct bus service for BADRINATH is available from Haridwar, travelers may avail this bus service and break his journey at Govindghat which is located 28 km before Badrinath. , but it is better to start journey from Rishikesh. In Rishikesh local private bus or Garwal Nigam bus are available. All bus plying are start before 9 am in morning because no bus is allowed to run in night in this hilly reagion, approx time to reach Joshimath or Govindghat is 10 to 11 hrs. One may also takes Jeep or Sumo hiring personally. One thing one must consider before starting journey is where he should break his journey for night staying. Two alternative are available, one is to halt for night staying at JOSHIMATH and be prepared for next morning– drive 20km more to reach GOVINDGHAT, from where actual trekking for HEMKUND and VALLEY OF FLOWERS starts. The other alternative is to travel by bus or Jeep up to Govinghat in the same day and halt for night staying in Gurudwara where free accommodation and meal is available, then starts trekking early in the next morning .

First Day

I started my journey by Garhwal Nigam bus for Govindghat, actually the bus was
going to BADARINATH. Being a local bus it was stopped now and then in every stoppage for the local people. No doubt it was taking more time, but it was better to know more about the local people and their custom and also to visit closely small town and holy confluences of rivers. Gradually we were climbing higher and higher along with the river ALAKANANDA. Road ahead is winding in zigzag way and below the deep slope river Alakananda is flowing with gurgling voice. We we were passing one by one small town Devprayag, Srinagar, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag , Nandaprayag etc. The panoramic view of prayags from road is really enchanting. Prayag is the meeting place of two or more rivers, these prayags also bear the mythological importance. One can view these enchanting picturesque sceneries, specially the confluences (Prayag) of rivers along the deep end of the slopes - somewhere a temple stands by the side of prayag , is worthy to glimpse from the high slope of road.

Devprayag is the meeting place of two holy river Alakananda and Bhagirathi , from here onwards the river is known as Ganga.

Another prayag out of “Panch Prayag” is Rudraprayag the confluence of holy river Alakananda and Madakini. Our bus was crossing one after another holy confluences.

Then came to Karnprayag where river Pindari embraces Alakananda, it is the third confluence on river Alakananda.

The forth prayag on Alakananda is Nandprayag another sister river name Nandakini meets here.

After Climbing more and more , passing Chamoli I reached to Joshimath – the small important town nearest to Baradinath, Hemkund and Valley of Flowers.

The height of Joshimath is 2100m above sea level whereas the height of Rishikesh , from where journey started is 370m , so one can easily guess how much we climbed in 255 km distance. Travelers have to trek at altitude of 3000m (Govinddham or Ghangaria), 3300m(Valley of Flowers) and 4329m (Hemkund) from 2000m(Govinghat) i.e. have to hike approx 2329m by trekking 20km . Therefore, some tourists break their journey at Joshimath as preparation for tough trekking to Hemkund. In this small town you can find everything you need for trekking. Travelers may stay in Forest bungalow, hotels and Dharamshalas. One of the main Sankaracharya maths are situated here. Badrinath ji is worships at Narasimha Temple in Joshimath , when Badarinath temple closes in winter. Travelers may also stay at Auli a famous ski resort situated at altitude of 3048 m is only 20 minutes distance by ropeway.

After Joshimath bus reached Govindghat in the evening. I got down from bus for here which was going to Baradinath. Gobindghat is the take off point for Valley of Flowers and Hemkund. Gurudwara and forest rest house are only lodging available in Govinghat. I spent the night in Gurudwara. Among the tourists 99 percent were found Sikh pilgrims who came to visit Hemkund Sahib. Free accommodation and meal are provided in the Gurudwara. Pilgrims starts their yatra(Trekking) in the morning after prayer and having halva prashad from Gurudwara.

Second Day
In the morning it was felt that Govindghat is like very small town , some Dhabas were located at the point from where actual trekking starts. Some porters and horses for hire were waiting to offer their service. I began to hiking for 14 km up to Ghangaria, which is also known as Gobinddham. Trekking started crossing a small bridge over a river, flowing along in the valley from Ghangaria to Gobindghat is known as Lakshman ganga. Trekking route to Ghangaria is almost well maintained track. The path was seems almost crowed by the Sikhs pilgrims. Some pilgrims were climbing riding on horseback and some by pitthu (porter). Pilgrims

on horseback were ascending a little faster then pedestrian pilgrims. Price of goods in road side Dhabas were more, informed that price would be more and more as we hiked more. Trekking in some narrow passage becomes risky when horse hurriedly passed by carrying goods to Govindham. Pedestrians should always be careful, even to enjoy the picturesque beauty of valley while trekking may sometimes tumbled – always should stop in safe place not in motion to view the enchanting landscapes. On the way found a very small village comprises three or four houses. I took a little rest front of a shop and began trekking again. Some pilgrims to Hemkund shahib were trekking in religious mode by chanting continuously “Sat Nam Wahe Guru” I was feeling very fatigue with my small luggage on back. I began to take frequent rest as going more height. The magical thing in mountain trekking is that view of nature’s picturesque landscapes rejuvenated all exhaustion and cheers for further trekking. Another picturesque village in the valley name Bhyundar with a river flowing through was across the way. After passing the river, trekking steep path made me tiresome, but a little rest sitting on the stone path and enchanting view of surrounding revitalized me quickly. Trekking more forward found a helipad and some erected tents – perhaps this was the tent colony of some tourist group. Some pilgrims were found returning from Hemkund to Govinghat, encouraged me telling “Ghangaria is nearby go ahead “

It was then afternoon when I reached Ghangaria. This village is actually uses as base camp for Hemkund Sahib and Valley of Flowers. Generally all Sikhs pilgrims stay at Gurudwara but anyone can also get free accommodation here. Besides, some hotels, restaurants and GMVN guesthouse or rest house are main buildings in this village. All buildings are erected affix to main path, which seems a bye lane of a small market. It was then begun raining, I hurriedly entered in the forest rest house where I somehow managed a place for spending the night by requesting caretaker Premprakash. I met here with another tourist who came from France and chatted with him sitting under umbrella in rain. It was gradually covering darkness everywhere in the evening, I came to my room and noticed through window that pilgrims were still coming and busy to finding a suitable lodging by soaking in rain.

Third Day
Early in the next morning , I went out for my n ext trekking. Trekking a bit found the valley is the meeting place of river Pushpabwati is flowing from Valley of flowers and Laksma nganga coming from Hemkund. A little ahead path is bifurcated in two direction one path in the right to Hemkund and in left direction to the Valley of Flowers. The steep 5 km long path reaches to the sacred “Lake of ice” at altitude of 4329 metres, which is popularly known as Hemku nd or Lokpal lake. Seven peaks surround the lake or Kund is one of the popular pilgrimages for Sikhs. The water of the lake is feed by the glacier fromthe Hathi Pa rvat and Saptrishi peak. In the year 1930, a Sikh havilder Sohan Singh discovered the place while trekking. He got association with the place from the writings of Guru Gobind Singh. Subsequently, the finding was preferred by Sikhs religious organization and chosen the spot as sacred pilgrimage center for Sikhs.
It took 4 hrs to trek this steep tough 5 km route to Hemkund. This last part of trekking out of 20 km from Gobindghat is the most difficult trekking. Generally trekking from Ghangaria to Hemkund takes 4 to 6 hours but actual time varies upon the physical ability of a tourist. I began resting frequently, and thought to rest for long time but after a little rest amidst nature’s picturesque surroundings rejuvenated quickly. Finally reaching the holy place found, a Gurudwara is erected on the bank of Hemkund (Lake of ice). It is truly called Hemkund because water of this Lake remain frozen almost seven months in year and it is not accessible during this time. When nature becomes favorable in the month from May to September, snow and ice of the lake began melting and Sikh pilgrims in large number begin visiting the sacred place and take a holy bathe in ice-cold water of the kund. The mythological name of the lake is “Lokpal”. Another religious structure on the shore of the lake is Lakshman Temple, Hindu believes that Lakhman the brother of Lord Ram had penance here. I heard somewhere that famous “Brahmakamal” flowers are found in Hemkund. I was very curious to find this Hindu mythological important flower. I began walking on high rocks in the side of lake for finding a Brahmakamal flower. Suddenly I felt a strong smelling and I was attracted by the smell - going ahead found a beautiful flower bloom in the gap of rocks , turn left found another, I was really very excited and became mad in joy to find "Brahma kamal" ! Within seconds, I got rid of all my fatigue and tiredness of trekking. I was alone there, no one was there to share my excitement. I collected some Brahmakamal and came back near Gurudwara where one curious pilgrim took one of my Brahmakamals. .In Hemkund there is no staying facility, all pilgrims are advised to leave Hemkund by 2 pm in the afternoon so that could reach Ghangaria before dark. After visiting everybody have to return in the same day either to Ghangaria or Govinghat. Some tourists halted at Ghangaria after visiting Hemkund Sahib and some returned directly to Govinghat. But I thought to stay at Ghangaria for one night more and to visit valley of Flowers in next morning. Though I am Hindu, I respect all religions and faith but visiting Hemkund was to enjoy the majestic charisma with chilled lake surrounded by the seven beautiful peaks and also to see the famed “Brahmakamal” a king of Himalayan flowers, which blooms in abundance here. I came back to Ghangaria in evening and spent the night in the same forest rest house.

Sitting with Premprakash taking BrahmaKamal on my lap at Ghangaria rest house.

Forth Day

I awoke early in the morning and began preparation for returning to Govindghat after visiting Valley of Flowers. Trek to this valley is much easier than dangerous steep stone path to Hemkund. I reached the junction point where paths are bifurcated to Valley of Flowers and Hemkund – walking toward the left direction came to the check post, where one has to register name and pay entrance fee. River Puspawati is flowing through the valley and meet Laksmanganga at Ghangaria. I crossed a bridge over Pushpawati and then the path was ascending and became narrow. Trekking 3 km into the valley, crossed another wooden bridge which is the starting boundary of valley of flowers and a detail map of the valley is fastened here. Some known and unknown flowers were seen in great number in the vast stretch of the valley.

The Valley Of flowers was discovered by FRANK S SMYTHE in the year 1937 , who was a mountaineer and botanist. He also written a book called "The Valley of Flowers" which unveiled the beauty and floral grandeurs of the valley and open the door to the flower lovers. Again , in the year 1939 a botanist name Miss Margarate Legge was deputed by the botanical gardens of Edinburgh for study the valley but unfortunately she was lost her life while collecting some flowers on the rocky slope. One can see a erected memorial which was built by the sister of Margarate Lagge on the spot where local people buried her. The valley is still link with the thoughtful memory of the flower lover Lagge. The following words are inscribed on the stone of the grave :-
"I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills from whence cometh my help."

This place where no big plant is seen, despite of that the valley was covered with grass and some rock with vast expanse of different colour flowers. Some are white, some red and some heavenly blue colour flowers make the place a dazzling land. If anyone is really love flowers one day is not sufficient here, he must stay for more days for detail studies.